Molded Cup Fitting Technology

Clothing Industry Training Authority
Hong Kong Intimate Apparel Industry Association


2017-11-04 - 09:30


2017-12-02 - 12:30


G/F Seminar Room, Clothing Industry Training Authority (CITA), 63 Tai Yip Street, Kowloon Bay   View map



Molded cup is a key element for making bra. Different shape and fit definitely will affect the product outcome. However, in the present industry practice, there is not any systematic method or technology to help the industry to get the fit done at the first time. Companies always waste lot of time on trial and error for the molded cup fitting.

In view of this, CITA organize this course with the Hong Kong Intimate Apparel Industry Association (HKIAIA), which is intended to provide knowledge for enhancing skill set of foam cup reforming and assessment, and strengthen technical skills of mold cup development.

The training course will be delivered by an authorized trainer of HKIAIA.

Who should attend – Designers, technicians, garment makers and anyone who ensures molded cup fitting technology.

Registration Deadline Passed

Date: 4 Nov, 11 Nov, 18 Nov, 25 Nov and 2 Dec 2017 (Total 5 lessons)
Time: 9:30a.m.-12:30p.m. (3 hours per lesson)
Venue: G/F Seminar Room, Clothing Industry Training Authority (CITA), 63 Tai Yip Street, Kowloon Bay
(Kowloon Bay MTR exit A)
Course Fee: HK$3,500 per person (including all training materials and live fit model)

This training programme is subsidized by the New Technology Training Scheme (NTTS) of the Vocational Training Council. Eligible applicants can apply for a training grant up to HK$1,750.00.
Class Size: Limited to 20 on a first-come-first-served basis
Priority is given to HKIAIA members

However, CITA reserves the right to reject applications, and in which case, the participation fee will be refunded in full.
Language: Cantonese


Ms. Mandy Ko
  • Over 30 years’ experience in garment pattern making and intimate apparel fit assessment.
  • Excellent paper pattern engineering in 2-D / 3-D and bias cut which covers outer garment and intimate products; proficient construction / make-up and sewing process.
  • Strong grading skill-set and 3-D sense of body figure, Strong at root cause analyzing and sort-out issue of fit.

Course Content:

Date  Topics
Lesson 1

4 Nov 2017


Mold cup fitting modeling and principles of molding condition / data and ways of lamination


  • An introduction of Lingerie Bra mold cup fitting, learn how / what molding data / condition affect the fit.
  • The key principles of foam / fabric cup molding theory.
  • An understanding of 3-D cup shapes to human breast.
  • Staring with cut & sewn in 2D cup shape idea to develop 3D mold cup.
  • Giving a sizing of body measurement of Lingerie industry.
  • 5-key points of Lingerie fit element.
  • Standards with commercial acceptance level.
  • Basics of molding terminology and ways of lamination; Hot melt, Spray and roller etc.
  • An introduction to the concept of general worldwide practice for fitting communication and theory.
  • An introduction the sizing of the US, Europe and UK market.

Aims and Objectives:

  • Understanding the terminology used in Lingerie industry
  • Enhance the knowledge of 2D & 3D cups.
  • An awareness of molding condition and fitting relationship.
  • An insight of key fit elements to make use in daily working area.
  • Develop an understanding of molding process and theory.
  • Enrich Understanding of commercial acceptance level.
  • An insight of how different of molding and Lingerie apparel professionals.
  • An appreciation of best practice in mold cup standard creation and approval through to bulk production.
  • An awareness of cost benefit of good fit.
Lesson 2

11 Nov 2017


Fitting analysis of fabric / foam mold cup and wire matching- cases study


  • Starting with a live model fitting to learn how to fit.
  • Analysis cup and wire shape on live model.
  • Building motivation environment involves the participant on fitting evaluation.
  • A discussion of what element affecting the fit.
  • Identification of root course of fit issue through live model.
  • Giving modification directions on how to get rid of fit issue.
  • Demonstration of how to reengineering the paper pattern.

Aims and Objectives:

  • Giving the theory of live model fitting
  • Understanding on how to evaluate fitting through sample on live model
  • Enhancing skill set of fitting analysis
  • Enhancing knowhow the root courses of fitting issue.
Lesson 3

18 Nov 2017


Case study of root course analysis and reform the cup shape


  • Cup shape analysis on live model / dummy
  • An approach of the different fit on live model and dummy.
  • An eyelevel of fit evaluation for one sample on different model.
  • Identification root courses of fit issue through sample assessment
  • 3D dimension and space allocation
  • Functional and fashion of cup modification.
  • Demonstration of reform / modification cups.

Aims and Objectives:

  • Understanding the fit due diligent through case study
  • Giving theory and practical to enhance participant
  • Building good practice on sample evaluation.
  • Knowing 3D dimension and space allocation to the cup.
  • Ways of Modification to achieve the fit.
  • Direction of reforming molded cup.
Lesson 4

25 Nov 2017


Grading theory of foam molded cup, fabric grain line and molded cup relationship


Foam mold

  • Analysis of key element of foam; thickness, density, lamination ways, fabric elongation direction and fabric composition for the fit
  • Understanding the Sizing of end buyer.
  • Giving grading increment.
  • Distribution of grading numbers.

Fabric grain and mold cup for fit

Aims and Objectives:

  • Understanding the grading direction
  • Knowhow on grading number distribution related to body frame.
  • 3D dimension and space allocation of mold cup
  • Understanding grading cup sizing and market need.
Lesson 5

2 Dec 2017


Fabric Mold grading theory, Case study on live model ( improved sample by participant)


Fabric mold

  • Analysis key element of fabric; composition, weight, thickness, stretchy ability, stretchy direction and recover capability.
  • Understanding sizing of end buyer.
  • Giving Grading increment
  • Distribution of grading number.

Aims and Objectives:

  • Giving details of practical of best practice of mold cup fitting analysis.
  • Understanding on how to get rid of most of fitting issues through root course analysis.
  • An insight of 3D & 2D different and space allocation.
  • Having a concept of grading number distribution.
  • Participant will have practical experience of practice for mold cup modification knowhow.